Crossing into Kyrgyzstan

by Nathan Hamm on 3/27/2007 · 6 comments

Erkindik & Ala-Tau MountainsKyrgyzstan has plenty of problems. It is not particularly blessed with natural resources. It is a small country with little arable land. And one almost need not mentioned the political situation. The government does not always seem interested in governing, and a significant chunk of the population is dissatisfied, leading to regular protests, shifting political alliances, and the occasional new constitution.

But Kyrgyzstan does have some things going for it. For example, the people are wonderful and the country has natural beauty that is hard to beat. So it is good to see that the government is exploring ways to capitalize on these assets.

On March 16, Turusbek Mamashev, director of the State Agency for Tourism, announced that his organisation and the Kyrgyz foreign ministry will soon be putting forward a proposal to the government to allow citizens from 28 developed nations to visit Kyrgyzstan without a visa.

Since 2002, nationals from these 28 countries have been able to enter Kyrgyzstan more easily by obtaining their visas on arrival.

Kyrgyzstan already has some of the least obnoxious requirements for entry on top of no longer requiring registration with the police. Taking additional steps to remove the barriers for tourists to enter Kyrgyzstan will only make things better for visitors. Not only does such a decision stand to increase tourist numbers, but it also will reduce the likelihood of visitors bringing back harrowing tales of bureaucracy (though longer-term visitors will still have them in spades, I’m sure).

IWPR’s report mentions that some are concerned though that liberalization of rules will be dangerous for Kyrgyzstan. The general manager of a tourist agency, the type of person one would expect to support such legislation with open arms, says that many foreign visitors “are involved in wrongdoing” and that the government should make sure to find out why people are entering Kyrgyzstan. (People can lie about their purposes when getting a visa though…) Another commenter says that though the visa relaxation could be abused, it should still be pursued because of the benefit it would have for the economy. And the government certainly should move forward on relaxing rules for visas. To boot, it should also combat the notion that a sizable segment of foreigners are looking to harm Kyrgyzstan.

But it’s not all good news for those wishing to cross the border into Kyrgyzstan. Uzbekistan has decided to back away from its visa-free travel agreement with Kyrgyzstan because the identification cards many Kyrgyz carry in place of passports lack pages for stamping on entry and exit. How one former Soviet state could forget the importance of copious stamping of official documents is beyond me, but the Uzbek side has asked the Kyrgyz side to come up with a solution.

During the month that the agreement was in effect, IWPR reports that crossing the border was easier, but far from free of problems. The biggest problem was corruption amongst the border guards. One of those interviewed for the story said that the cost of bribes decreased while the agreement was in effect.

Though corruption is rife on both sides of the frontier, Uzbek nationals appear to be worse off, often paying multiple bribes in the course of a single trip.

“The Kyrgyz border guards don’t take bribes from their own citizens. As for us, we have to give handouts to both Uzbek and Kyrgyz border guards,” said Zokirjon Hashimov, from the Uzbek town of Khanabad.

He explained that Uzbeks pay 200 soms to be let out of their own country. The Kyrgyz frontier guards let them in for nothing as long as their documents are in order, but target them as they leave carrying goods bought at the Karasuu market. Then the Uzbek border guards hit them for another bribe, and local police will stop them and extort more money on the pretext of checking their documents.

“That’s how life is for us,” sighed Hashimov.

It would be wonderful if the two sides could come up with a solution that really did make crossing the border easier so that trade would be stimulated. But since that might involve having to try to find a way to live without stamps, I would not count on the border getting any easier to cross.

This post was written by...

– author of 2040 posts on Registan.net.

Nathan founded Registan.net in 2003. He was a Peace Corps Volunteer in Uzbekistan 2000-2001 and received his MA in Central Asian Studies from the University of Washington in 2007. Since 2007, he has worked full-time as an analyst, consulting with clients on Central Asian affairs, specializing in how socio-cultural factors shape risks and opportunities. Follow him on Twitter or drop him a line.

{ 6 comments }

Berdi March 27, 2007 at 4:27 pm

The Turks are most hospitable. Kyrgyzstan is less corrupt than almost any nation in the World especially the Western ones. Uzbekistan needs to shed sovietism.

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Brian March 27, 2007 at 8:21 pm

That’s a bit of a stretch.

Some people have a flair for hyperbole and exaggeration.

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DHDPHD March 27, 2007 at 8:48 pm

The requirements for getting a Kyrgyz visa are lax compared to other countries; a mere $90 for a 3 month personal visa is great. Unfortunately, deregulating would definitely cause problems because of the “religious” groups who extort the naive make a large hole in the economic potential of the entire country. Also, the Kyrgyz citizens who are in those 28 countries would not have a fair deal if they are there based on visa requirements.

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Ataman Rakin March 28, 2007 at 1:56 am

“would definitely cause problems because of the “religious” groups who extort the naive make a large hole in the economic potential of the entire country.”

I suppose that you mean all these Christian sects?

I myself don’t believe in the benefits of betting the most on tourism really. First, you know how it goes: people see easy money, they become over-dependent on it and then, the slightest instability — and want it or not, region *will* become ever more unstable — and bang, no more tourists.

Second, the local perception of ‘tourism development’ is one fo the kind that is set to destory the country’s main asset, natural beauty, bu pouring out concrete and asphalt everywhere, plumping down huge resorts with casinos and karaoke bars etc.

Third, I think it will increase the problem of sexual exploitation and hiv — if you see the depravity and indecency in Bishkek for instance it is not hard to guess what kind of tourists are going to be attracted.

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DHDPHD March 28, 2007 at 6:48 am

Yes, the Christian sects, and great points by the way.

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Mark March 29, 2007 at 10:34 am

I didn’t see the depravity and indecency in Bishkek. But, I wasn’t looking for it and our definitions may be different.

If I was planning a trip to CA I know my itinerary would include the easier countries to visit.

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