Twenty years is a long time in American politics, long enough for administrations to reverse 180° and back again. It equals 5 presidential terms, in other words. This year Nazarbaev will celebrate two full decades at the top position, and one could say that his administration has gone through similar changes. The 1990s seem like ancient history for most in Kazakhstan, except as anecdotal evidence and a reminder of how things COULD still be. Whether by luck or chance or keen administration, Kazakhstan has definitely come a looooong way. But, one thing is clear – in policy and personnel, virtually no one is in the same position as 20 years prior. With the exception of a certain man whose initials are N.A.N., of course.
In Almaty’s park commemorating the 28 Panfilov heroes, there is a very interesting sidewalk lined with trees, planted in the shadow of the beautiful wooden church that has stood since Tsarist times. That church has seen a lot of history, including the destruction of the surrounding cemetery by Bolsheviks and the creation of the park. Most interesting, perhaps, are the aforementioned trees – each planted by a different leader of the CIS states. Except for Nazarbaev and Karimov in Uzbekistan, none remain in power. Whether this is a sign of their acquiesing to democratic forces or merely falling from power, I will leave that to others.
I snapped pictures of the two other long-term leaders, Karimov and Turkmenbashi nee Niyazov. Their trees are doing well. They are tall and healthy, doing well in Almaty’s gentle alpine climate. It’s more intriguing to consider what plans were going through each President’s mind as they planted the tree. Surely it was just another sign of cooperation, another symbolic action proving their dedication to Central Asian solidarity. That their private policies and opinions in no way resembled the rhetoric that accompanied the planting of these trees is of no consequence to the trees, but of crucial importance to the people of Central Asia [and those of us lucky enough to be familiar with it as well].
My only regret is that the Khan Shatyr wasn’t finished for Nazzy B’s birthday and 20-year-anniversary. I guess they’ll open it on Independence Day instead. Sigh… all we get is a silly stadium. 
This post was written by...
Michael Hancock-Parmer – author of 153 posts on Registan.net.
Michael earned an MA in Central Eurasian Studies in 2011 and remains a student at Indiana University pursuing a dual PhD in Russian History and Central Eurasian Studies. He served 6 months in the Peace Corps in Uzbekistan in 2005. After the events in Andijan and the subsequent closure of the program, he served 2 years in southern Kazakhstan, returning to the Midwest in 2007. His general area of interest is on post-Timur Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan, centered on the Syr Darya river valley.
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Enjoyable post. Thanks!